He started his harvest on October 15 and finished on November 13, except for 1 hectare left over for Eiswein. He decided to harvest half on this remaining fruit beginning of December (at -4C°C) and was able to harvest some 270 litres of Eiswein on December 29. Overall, yields only reached 48 hl/ha this year (i.e. well below those in 2007).
The acidity levels in the grapes were worryingly high when they came into the cellars often topping 11 g/l. This led Dr. Carl von Schubert and Stefan Kraml (the Estate manager since 2004) to rely on some extended (overnight) pre-fermentation skin contact. Thankfully, the very cold winter favoured the crystallization of tartaric acidities, which also reduced acidity levels. Still, both were amazed that acidities naturally fell down by as much as 3 g/l during the winemaking process, an amount neither had encountered before. The result is that the finished wines show more reasonable levels of acidities.
As so many other Estates, it decided against trying to produce any high level Auslese. The semi-frosted fruit harvested beginning of December was deemed not of sufficient quality for separate bottling and was blended into lower level wines. Only one bottling of Auslese (from a selection in the Abtsberg harvested at 95 ° Oechsle) was finally made. For the first time in years, some basic bottlings were chaptalized slightly to gain some body and weight.
Grünhaus aficionados will be pleased to hear that the wines show pure and classic aromatics that made the fame of this Estate (mixing mango, banana and spicy fresh herbs with Zesty acidity). Dr. Carl von Schubert candidly admits that he was positively surprised (not to say relieved…) by the elegance of flavours after the difficulties encountered during the harvest. However, he finds it hard to compare the vintage with any recent ones: “these wines have their own style”.
There are quite some news and changes to report in 2008. The most important is without doubt the launch of an ambitious Weißburgunder after the Estate planted nearly 1 hectare with this grape in 2005. Rather than trying to make ‘another easy-to-drink’ Weißburgunder, Dr. Carl von Schubert aimed at producing a more ‘serious’ wine based on low yields as well as on some (partial) oak aging. Besides this new wine, the Estate has restructured its dry wine portfolio to abandon the Spätlese denomination and reserves this Prädikat only to its fruity-styled wines. Hence, the former Abtsberg and Herrenberg trocken bottlings are now denominated Abtsberg and Herrenberg trocken Alte Reben, and they are still made from old vines harvested at full physiological maturity. Finally, Stelvin screw caps are making an entry here also for all the basic Estate bottlings.
The collection is overall remarkably successful, especially in the fruity-styled portfolio and marks a great return to the ‘good old Grünhaus style (something which was of course rather difficult to achieve in the three last vintages). The Spätlese and upwards wines are true highlights of the vintage.
2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Eiswein 95
This was harvested on December 29 at -9°C from 0,50ha in the upper part of the Herrenberg (a parcel situated in the former Grüneberg on deeper soil, which helps to keep the grapes comparatively clean). Boasting a full 170 ° Oechsle and 13,8 g/l of total acidity this nevertheless remains nicely balanced thanks to nearly 250 g/l of residual sugar! Surprisingly for such a late harvest, this Eiswein is not dominates by botrytis-affected flavours. On the contrary, it exhibits great flavours of concentrated pink grapefruit together with yellow peach, fresh apricot, quince and citrus peel. The intensity and complexity are remarkable on the palate, underlined by a slight touch of honey on the mid-palate, and yet the wine remains light on its feet. The finish is sappy and multi-layered. This is irresistible now and it will be hart to wait for the wine to mature. 2016 – 2030+
2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese 92
Only one cask of Auslese was made from fruit at around 95 ° Oechsle. This is a rather light and delicate type of Auslese and one that would have been called feine Auslese in the pre- 1971 days. The nose is all pastel with hints of mango, banana, guava as well as minerals and a touch of smoke. The feeling of lightness continues on the palate, where it shines through its delicacy. This is a very fine and pure wine. 2016 – 2030
2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Spätlese 91
The wine presents a very fresh and complex nose made initially of roses and peach skin. It is well balanced and rather powerful with flavours of mango, citrus and an attractive flowery side. The finish is smooth and rather creamy. This Spätlese shines through its inner balance and its great length. 2014 – 2028
2008 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett 90
Boy is this hard to resist. Floral with subtle hints of mango, peach and herbs, this comes over as refined, precise and complex on the palate with good length. Additional weight in the mid-palate would have made a stunner if this. Still, it is a great old-fashioned Kabinett. 2013 -2020
Back to overview
